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Historical September 2014 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
When we heard that University City’s native son Tom Schmidt had restyled his restaurant on Delmar across the street from Blueberry Hill as “Salt + Smoke,” we were intrigued.
When he added the propitious words “BBQ Bourbon Beer” to his signage, he sold me. Consequently, when an impromptu date night with the friends and neighbors Jon and Lynn Tiede surfaced, we headed over to Delmar as fast as our legs could carry us.
While walking over to choose from many delicious Delmar options I was thrilled when Jon asked, “Have you been to Salt and Smoke yet?” I answered that sadly we had not.
He did not have time to form the words “Well then let’s go” when I answered “yes!” so as to forestall any possible any derivation of this rather fortuitous chain of events. You might remember Mr. Schmidt’s previous restaurant, Nico’s, formerly in this space.
The interior footprint has not changed much, gladly, because it works well, both for traffic flow and for comfortable spacing.
The decor, however, reflects the theme of this particular establishment perfectly.
The Salt + Smoke website proclaims its intention to bring Texas-style BBQ to the Delmar Loop. Everything is made from scratch, right in the restaurant, and the furniture and decorations accentuate that mission.
The hardwood floors run smooth, but not glossy; the tables are constructed from yellow pine, and the napkins are red and white checkered. Instead of the ubiquitous framed artsy posters, floor-toceiling chalk boards cover most of the walls.
The others are filled with wooden crates Tetrised into place, displaying everything from enameled water pitchers to antique lamps to firewood.
In short, things you would not be surprised to find in a Texas ranch house.
But enough about the decor.
If you wanted to spend money looking at something pretty, you would buy tickets to Formula One racing. You want to read about the food. Happily, we managed to order some.
With this restaurant’s tagline, I could not countenance ordering a drink not aged in a charred oak barrel, so a Manhattan it was.
In retrospect, I wish that I had taken advantage of the six (6) pages of bourbons, ryes, whiskeys and scotches. Salt + Smoke has a huge selection of bourbons: one that could only be improved if they added Beer Barrel Bourbon from Holland, Michigan.
The Manhattan was sublime: smooth, but not overly-vermouthed – meaning: limited to a few drops. Cristina ordered a Moscow Mule, which she sipped happily and declared one of the best she’s had and would return for more. Soon.
The menu also features a good variety of beers, many of them from St. Louis, if that suits your mood.
The food menu fits comfortably all on one page. Usually, that spells trouble because you run the risk of nothing sounding particularly interesting or appetizing.
I would be more than happy to emulate the character in the film Diner who tries to eat every item on the menu in one sitting. Alas, Cristina tells me that would not be “healthy.” For appetizers, we ordered the Cheddar Bacon Popovers, although we were tempted to try the Hush Puppies and Maple Butter.
A popover reminds me of a roll that just cannot contain its goodness, expanding into a mushroom cloud of bacon and cheddar.
This ought to be a staple of every restaurant in St. Louis.
On my friend Jon Tiede’s recommendation, I ordered the St. Louis Ribs.
I have never gravitated towards ribs; I usually find them too awkward and greasy. These, however, rival Pappy’s.
The spices rubbed on the outside lead you further on, and your taste buds are not disappointed.
The texture (firm, but not dry) is perfect; the spices augment the meat, but do not overpower it. You cannot go wrong with ribs from Salt + Smoke. Cristina opted for the Pulled Chicken sandwich, on Lynn Tiede’s recommendation.
She dressed it up with one of Salt and Smoke’s signature BBQ Sauces, Mustarolina, and declared it perfect. For a side, she had the green bean and tomato salad.
The salad exemplifies what Salt and Smoke does so well. Simple, delicious food that you will want to come back for, and quickly. Really, I do not think there is a way to make the wrong choice with this menu. So, if you ever wanted to visit Texas, you do not have to go that far to have a taste. Just step on over to Salt + Smoke. You will not go away either hungry or disappointed. Bring the children, too: Salt + Smoke is family-friendly, and there is no reason to deny them the wonders of the Cheddar Bacon Popovers.
Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, September 2014.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times2014_09.pdf, printed page(s) 6; PDF page(s) 6.
