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Historical October 1993 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
This month’s column comes from John Sappington. long-time Skinker-DeBaliviere resident and co-owner of West End Wines in DeBaliviere Place. John lives with his wife Mary Karr and their daughter Anne in the 6100 block of Kingsbury.
If anyone is interested in submitting an article for this eating and drinking column, please call me at 727-6377.
We have a special treat planned for November but would love a holiday column for December.
The subject does not have to be a recipe: it could be a restaurant review of a neighborhood eatery. Let me hear from you. Pancakes by John Sappington Breakfast on Sunday mornings is the favorite meal at our house.
For my wife, my mother-in-law and me, it is a rare opportunity to sit down as a family and have what passes for civilized discourse on the affairs of the day. School. local politics, the ripeness of the melon, and the trials besetting Prince Valiant and his extended family are frequent topics. Our daughter Anne is perfectly happy to break bread with us, but the reason Sunday breakfast is her favorite meal has less to do the the company than the (unvarying) menu. Pancakes. Every Sunday morning, under Anne’s exceedingly watchful eye.
I cook the World’s Largest Pancake. Or so we call it.
In truth. she well knows this dinner-plate size flapjack is no record holder. What matters, of course, is that Anne’s pancake is larger than any other in sight.
I then fix normal-sized pancakes for the rest of us from whatever batter is left over, while my wife is sizzling sausages. Finally my daughter and I put on our oven mitts and with much grunting and frequent stops to catch our breaths, lug the W.L.P. from oven to table. I’ve been known to mutter about having to fix pancakes every Sunday morning of the year, but in fact I enjoy making them. Once the batter is done and the assembly line starts up, a gratifying sense of industry takes over. Pour, sip coffee, flip, sip, remove to warm oven.
All very purposeful and exactly corresponding to the limits of my ambition and dexterity on Sunday morning.
I have based my recipe (a purist might say “lifted in its entirety”) on the one published by that great St Louisan, Irma Rombauer. Experienced cooks will note the only significant departure from the basic recipe is the separation of the eggs. 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons sugar 1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup Milk 2 eggs, separated 3 tablespoons sweet butter. melted Sift flour, measure, then sift again with remaining dry ingredients. Combine milk, melted butter, and egg yolks and blend. Add liquid ingredients to dry, stirring only until the flour is absorbed. Beat egg whites stiff and fold into batter with a rubber spatula. Cook pancakes in a hot skillet (see note) and keep in a warm oven until ready to serve. Serve with sausage and maple syrup (see note). Notes: I use an electric skillet set at 400. At this temperature I find I do not have to use any grease in the pan.
The pancakes seem to rise higher, as well.
If precise control is not available, sprinkle a drop or two of water on the pan – it should dance around.
The water, that is, not the pan. Pure maple syrup is one of this country’s great culinary• resources and should be used whenever possible. Commercial (cane) syrups that contain little or no maple syrup cannot compare.
The best syrup comes from New Hampshire – not an opinion based on the fact it is my family’s home, but an objective fact, obvious to any palate.
I tried Wisconsin syrup once, while visiting in-laws in Milwaukee and found it quite good.
I understand Vermont also produces syrup, but I can’t vouch for its quality.
Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, October 1993.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times1993_10.pdf, printed page(s) 4; PDF page(s) 4.
