Historical September 1980 report or notice. Original dates, prices and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
Several years ago The Paper ran a series of articles spotlighting restaurants, shops and theaters located in the Delmar Loop of University City.
That was 1978 and the years since have seen the opening of some new businesses and changes to some older ones.
This article will introduce you to the newer restaurants and renew your acquaintance with the older ones. ### The Tree Trunk Restaurant
The Tree Trunk Restaurant located at 6378 Delmar has been open only two months after moving to our community from 6624 Clayton. Joe Brash, proprietor, is a native New Yorker, who came to St. Louis in 1952.
He is a former manufacturing representative who entered the restaurant business because he was tired of dining at “greasy spoons.” “TTR” (as the restaurant is affectionately called by its patrons) is billed as a New York deli and, as stated on the menu, it is not a fast food restaurant.
The menu is varied in selection and price.
A corned beef on rye ($3.25) or pastrami on rye ($2.95) or a classic Reuben ($3.50) can be enjoyed by all deli-lovers; those on a lower budget can equally enjoy a Kosher All Beef dog for $1.25. There is also a range of hamburgers from a ‘/4 lb. burger ($1.35) through a 1/2 lb. patti-melt ($2.75) to a T.T. special ($3.95) consisting of a ‘/ 1b. super cheese burger, 1 lb. of fresh french fries or mashed potatoes and a french ice cream shake or jumbo drink. Among the special dinners are deep fried Jack Salmon with fries or mashed potatoes and cole slaw ($3.75).
The openface Brisket of beef also comes with potatoes and cole slaw.
The after five dinner selection is half a fried chicken ($4.25) or a whole fried chicken ($6.95), served with french fries or mashed potatoes with gravy, cole slaw and texas toast.
The chicken takes 30 minutes but is well worth the wait.
Some other deli selections are Bagel and Lox cream cheese spread ($1.25), Gefilte fish ($1.25), and Knishes potato ($1.00) and meat ($1.10).
A pound of fresh french fries prepared with skins is 85¢.
But the main feature of the Tree Trunk Restaurant is Matzoh-Brie. Matzoh-Brie resembles an omelet and has the texture of both a souffle and a quiche without being either.
It is available in over 100 variations, some of which have to be special ordered. Pizza Matzoh-Brie ($6.50) and shrimp oriental ($6.50) are two such variations.
For sweet-eaters there is also an applebanana Matzoh-Brie ($4.50).
A MatzohBrie can be built to suit any taste and this writer encourages a visit to this unusual restaurant to sample one. Then let your friends know what they have been missing. Beverages include the usual: coffee, milk, and soda.
But new to this writer was a New York egg-cream (65c) made with real chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer.
It was creamy delicious. Dr. Brown’s soda is also a popular beverage selection. Dessert is simple New York style cheese cake ($1.00) with variations slightly higher.
We welcome Joe Brash and his fine restaurant to our neighborhood.
Nitty Gritty
Located at 6394 Delmar, Nitty Gritty Natural Foods Store is an old friend to most of us.
When it was written up in the December 1978 issue of The Paper. this writer discussed the wide selection of herbs, spices, natural grains, whole wheat flour, legumes, and pasta available. Also mentioned where the dried fruits, nuts, cheeses, and assorted mixes of granola. I am pleased to report at this time that the same atmosphere that made Nitty Gritty what it was in 1978 still prevails today.
The weigh-and-bag-your-own concept is still in use the freshness and quality of the products has not changed.
However, proprietor Glen Willis has made some changes (and good ones) with the addition of a sandwich and soup bar.
The most popular selection seems to be a Vegetarian Pocket Sandwich ($2.25) that resembles a taco.
A broccoli and cheese quiche is available at $1.15 a slice. Soups include a cup of lentil (60¢) or cold celery or cucumber (50¢). Strawberry tingle, peach and orange “smoothies and creamies” ($1.35) are fruit shakes included in the beverage category. Cheese plates and salads are also available.
A total of eight sandwiches rounds out the menu which tends to vary from day to day.
The addition of the lunch bar is a welcome asset to Nitty Gritty and to the Loop.
Cicero’s
In February 1978 Cicero’s, 6510 Delmar, was called “the newest addition to the growing number of restaurants in the area.” That was two and a half years ago and the ‘newest addition’ has now grown to occupy twice the space that it did then. Probably the most significant change in the menu has been the addition of Spirits.
The wine list offers a good selection of wines sold by glass, 1/2 liter and liter. Draft and imported beers can be ordered as well as mixed drinks.
Another menu change I noted was the omission of Strip Steak, Rib-eye Steak, and Jumbo Fried Shrimp.
But lovers of Italian food do not patronize Italian restaurants for their steak.
The pasta is what they want, and in this area, Cicero’s shines. Probably the brightest star among the pasta specialties is Cicero’s Pasta Almara ($6.95), pasta served with a rich cream sauce loaded with shrimp, crabmeat and mushrooms. it is definitely this writer’s favorite, but that is not to take from other pasta dishes such as Cannelloni with meat sauce ($5.75) or with white sauce ($6.25). Also available is a great Lasagna ($6.25).
All pasta specialties (9 in all) include a small salad, bread, and a glass of wine.
The pizza at Cicero’s is tempting enough to make anyone forget about a diet.
They are made in three sizes (8, 12, and 16 inch) with New York, Chicago, or deep dish Sicilian crusts.
Some interesting salads are: the seafood salad ($3.95) which is lettuce with chunks of crabmeat, shrimp, tomatoes and cheese; or the Caesar ($2.75) made with Cicero’s own special caesar dressing.
All salads are served with garlic bread.
An appetizer plate ($5.50) will serve three people with an array of toasted ravioli, onion chips, fried zucchini, fried mushrooms, artichokes and potato skins.
These items can also be served individually as appetizers for those not so adventuresome. Garlic bread ($1.10) and cheese garlic bread ($1.50) are also listed. Three dinner selections are served with salad, choice of spaghetti, french fries or vegetables, and garlic bread.
They are Veal parmigian ($6.35), Egg Plant Parmigian ($5.95) and 10 oz. Chopped Sirloin Steak ($5.50).
A fine sandwich selection is also listed.
For dessert Cicero’s Famous Ice Cream Delights are truly delightful. Probably the most famous is Cicero’s Gold: 3 scoops of french vanilla ice cream, Gold rich topping ( which is poured on hot and hardens to a crust), whipped cream, chopped nuts, and a cherry on top.
If this proves to be too much, there are other fountain drinks and ice cream selections and, of course, cheese cake: plain ($1.10) or with strawberry or chocolate topping ($1.40).
(Editor’s Note: This is the first of a two-part series.)
Original photograph caption
Original restaurant drawing by Gabrielle DiLorenzo. The Paper, September 1980, page 4.
Originally published in The Paper, September 1980.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times1980_09.pdf, printed page(s) 4; PDF page(s) 4.
