Historical November–December 2025 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
One of the delightful benefits of living in the Skinker-DeBaliviere community is having the ability to walk to great restaurants within the Delmar Loop. Recently I learned about Brasas, a Peruvian restaurant located at 6138 Delmar Blvd.
Here is the American story about a son of immigrants who is beating the odds!
During the early days of the Covid pandemic in 2020-2021 there were approximately 30 restaurants that closed in the St. Louis metropolitan area. Against all odds, Chef Andrew Cisneros, the son of Peruvian immigrants boldly became a first-time restaurant owner during covid. At the age of 28 he started Jalea Peruvian Bistro on Main St. in St. Charles specializing in seafood!
During such a difficult period it would be reasonable to ask how such a culturally specific restaurant could possibly be successful. Just one year before Cisneros started Jalea, a very popular Peruvian restaurant known as Mango closed in downtown St. Louis after 16 years of operation due to the pandemic.
The young and enthusiastic Cisneros was not deterred! Chef Cisneros understood that sometimes it is during crisis that opportunity presents itself! He’d been hunting for a spot to locate his restaurant when a family member connected him to the owners of the Red Sun restaurant that was closing in St. Charles. Cisneros knew his recipes were refined, tested and ready to go.
He had saved money and was poised to seize the opportunity in a restaurant friendly location.
Most importantly, Chef Cisneros was ready to put in the hard work to make Jalea Peruvian Bistro a success in spite of the overwhelming odds. Perhaps it was his upbringing and early introduction to cooking Peruvian food side by side with his mother and grandmother that nurtured his confidence. Cisneros grew up loving the delicious dishes of his family including unique spices and preparations native to his homeland. Cisneros attended L ’Ecole Culinary School learning the basics of French cooking but he knew that the cuisine of Peru was one of the best in the world because of the remarkable multicultural contributions of Africans, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and indigenous people.
The fact is that Chef Cisneros was right! Peru has been recognized as a World’s Leading Culinary Destination for at least 12 years in a row including 2024!
This year Maido in Lima, Peru was voted #1 in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants for its fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine.
The James Beard Culinary Awards, often thought of as the Oscars of the culinary industry, have recently recognized Peruvian restaurants in the USA. By 2024 Cisneros opened Brasas on the border of Skinker DeBaliviere. Brasas, specializes in rotisserie chicken made with dried red pepper, lime juice and beer with oyster sauce.
The recipe, developed by Cisneros is unique to Brasas but deeply rooted in Peruvian culture. Though Jalea in St. Charles specializes in seafood including traditional Ceviche and a popular “seafood paella “ both restaurants have charcoal grilled meats such as beef and pork and reflect the balance of innovation and tradition that Cisnero’s brings to the preparations.
I asked Chef Cisneros why he came to our neighborhood.
His answer simply put was that he loved the Loop and had experience working with the well-known restaurant Publico, which had three James Beard semi-finalist nominations for culinary excellence but later closed. Undoubtedly, Cisneros learned from his experience with other restaurants and soon became a “go to person” for owners in the industry. St. Louis Magazine reported in February 2025 that Chef/Owner Cisneros was “tapped to develop the food menu at Rockwell Brewery” and is considered by many as a rising star in the industry. Cisneros has a longstanding relationship with another very successful restaurateur, Qui Tran of Mai Lee’s and Nudos which is across the street from Brasas on Delmar. Cisnero’s is very fond of Qui Tran and the two share a desire to make St. Louis a top spot for international foods.
I can only imagine the energy and excitement that these two dynamic people bring to the table when they get together!
In 2003, as a world music and theater producer, I was surprised to learn there was a very unique genre of music and dance in Peru that was distinctly African.
I was so moved by the music that I went to Lima, Peru in search of Peru Negro an internationally known music and dance ensemble known for their mastery of this genre.
The very next year in 2004 I brought the group to St. Louis performing at the Community Music School at 560 Trinity Avenue in University City.
We engaged the Peruvian Society of St. Louis and Rosa Schwartz, then Honorary Consul of Peru inviting them to collaborate on the project.
We planned and managed the event together, packed the house and served Peruvian food to the delight of all who came! Before the performance we engaged Peruvians, African Americans and other groups at the home of a Peruvian Doctor to learn about similarities and differences in our respective cultures.
The exchange was meaningful, enlightening and fun!
When I learned that an authentic Peruvian restaurant called Brasas opened around the corner from my house in the Skinker DeBaliviere neighborhood I was genuinely excited.
I met and interviewed the impressive Andrew Cisneros at his quaint restaurant and thought that his parents, who worked so hard in the hospitality industry in housekeeping and bartending, must be very proud of their son.
He loved the cooking he learned from the strong women in his family and has allowed that passion to fuel his enthusiasm and success! Cisneros loves his culture, celebrates his family and displays great leadership in contributing to food culture in St. Louis and he’s getting attention for his skills and creativity from the St. Louis hospitality community. Cisneros plans to open Aya Waska, a gastropub with cocktails and small plates next door to Brasas. Welcome to the Skinker DeBaliviere community Andrew Cisneros!
Original photograph caption
Chef Andrew Cisneros.
Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, November–December 2025.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Archival transcription note: Cecilia printed variant preserved, existing account resolution required. Source Cisnero’s and Worlds spellings retained.
Original source: SD_Times2025_11.pdf, printed page(s) 7; PDF page(s) 7.
