St. Louis, Missouri STL
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Oldest neighborhood newspaper in St. Louis · Independent and all volunteer-run since 1970

Mission Taco Joint

By Cristina McGroarty, Sean McGroarty
Mission Taco Joint logo. Designer not separately credited.

Historical April–May 2013 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.

You should know a couple of things about us before you trust us to review a restaurant for you.

First, we are not foodies. Sure, we like food, but that probably doesn’t qualify us.

If you need to know if the foie gras was properly prepared or if the saki was served at the correct temperature, check with anybody named Lodholz. Second, we usually hesitate before we try new restaurants. That’s a flaw in our character, sure, but it’s not one we’re going to fight. Too many disappointments come down that path. Imagine, for instance, going to a place named “Margarita’s” and finding out that they do not serve margaritas. That actually happened to us.

We still get chills thinking about it. But, when our neighborhood calls, we respond. So, when we learned that the Times needed someone to check out Mission Taco Joint on Delmar, we decided to risk it. Our friends Beth Bender and Shauna Cunningham on Kingsbury had good things to say, which gave us some comfort.

After verifying that Mission Taco Joint had its liquor license (see the margarita fiasco, above), we set out to explore. Practical matters first.

This being St. Louis, parking is key, and here it is plentiful. Or at least it is now until Wash U. builds whatever is going up across the street. Mission Taco Joint is in the space previously occupied by the Delmar Lounge, and the owner has done a fantastic job making it look inviting.

The bartender, the waiters, and all of the staff you see smile when you enter, and in our case, invited us to sit wherever we pleased.

The bar area is filled with four-top and six-top high tables, and hardwood floors lead you back to more of a family area in the back.

The aluminum chairs and bar stools give a clean edge to the warm décor.

The cocktail selection is unlike anything we have seen in quite a while. Sean ordered a drink called “The Bourbon Reforms,” much like a Manhattan, with “Missouri Moonshine” added and served straight up. Outstanding, although next time I might ask if they can serve it on the rocks with a dry instead of a sweet vermouth. Cristina ordered a “Dove of Spain,” a drink made with tequila, lime juice, grapefruit juice, and soda.

It tasted as good as it sounds.

The drinks were easy to choose.

The food took a little more time. No matter: our waiter said that if we were okay with sharing, he would just bring us out dishes as we ordered them.

We started with crab taquitos and guacamole with chips.

We could have eaten the taquitos all night; they were a perfect combination of textures and taste.

The guacamole was delightful as well, although we usually prefer it to be somewhat saltier. That didn’t stop Sean from trying to lick the bowl. No matter—on to the next dish. Cristina settled on fish tacos.

She takes her fish tacos seriously, and not just on Fridays during Lent.

She immediately proclaimed these to be the Best Fish Tacos Cristina Has Ever Eaten!

The corn tortillas made on site are delicious, the fish is crispy, and the chipotle baja sauce adds a perfect tang to the sweet cabbage crunch.

The tacos are served individually on small plates, so you can try a few varieties for a reasonable price.

There is nothing small, on the other hand, about the hamburguesa that Sean ordered.

The beef brisket patty was grilled to perfection, and topped with chipotle bacon, avocado, Chihuahua cheese, pickled jalapeno, and garlic mayo.

All of that was served on a bed of chile crusted fries. Very few things in life can beat a good burger, and this one was fantastic.

The menu told us to leave room for the churros for dessert, so we obliged.

If you have never had a churro, you really need to.

The housemade, cinnamoncoated fried dough would have been enough on its own, but it was served with Mexican chocolate sauce. Really, it was everything that doughnut wishes it could be. So, come by Mission Taco Joint. You will not be disappointed. Families with children are welcome. Take a look at their Facebook page for more information.

Original photograph caption

Mission Taco Joint logo. Designer not separately credited.

Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, April–May 2013.

Read this article in the original newspaper issue.

Original source: SD_Times2013_04.pdf, printed page(s) 5; PDF page(s) 5.

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