Historical February–March 2010 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
Ivy Tominack (60XX Waterman) has lived in Skinker-DeBaliviere for six years. Although the Maryland native moved to St. Louis for a job in public health education, these days, working with food dominates her waking moments. Based on her culinary studies at L’Ecole Culinaire, back-of-the-house knowledge from working at Eclipse at the Moonrise Hotel and her green thumb (she’s a member of the McPherson Community Garden), we knew that Ivy would have a tasty recipe to share with neighbors.
Her braised lambs don’t disappoint and neither do her thoughts about the joys of cooking. Who inspired you to cook?
My mother is amazing.
I would watch her working in the kitchen to feed all of us (I’m one of 12 children).
I figured if I could make food, my mom wouldn’t have to work so hard.
When I was 10 or 11 years old, she said, “Anyone who can read can cook.” Based on the subsequent kitchen disasters, I’d have to say that her statement was a gross oversimplification. What do you love about cooking? People love to eat. Feed people and they’re happy. Feed people something that looks and tastes wonderful, and they’re ecstatic.
I love making people feel ecstatic. Cooking is a loving, nurturing act.
It is a noble profession.
When you go out to eat, know that the people preparing your food are doing so out of love for the art and science of cooking and a love for our fellow humans.
When do you get the urge to prepare braised lamb shanks? Frigid temperatures call for stews and braised dishes. You need to eat something warm and heavy to ward off the chill. Eating this dish should make you feel like you’re wrapped in a cozy sweater or getting a hug from your favorite person. Any recommendations for accompaniments? White bean cassoulet is a classic accompaniment to lamb. Roasted root vegetables like turnip, rutabaga, and parsnip also work well.
To add some color to the plate, I recommend sauteed spinach and polenta. What is your role at Eclipse?
I have been at Eclipse since it opened last April.
My title is line cook.
I am the assistant to Claire, the pastry chef.
I bake breads for the dinner service, quick breads for breakfast, cookies, etc.
I make dessert sauces and garnishes.
When not doing pastry, I work on the “cold” side making salads, appetizers, and desserts. Sometimes I work the broiler on the “hot” side.
I also work as a dish steward; that’s one of the most important jobs in the kitchen. Without dishes, no one can do his or her job, including the front of the house. Seriously, the whole place would shut down. What are your plans after you graduate from L’Ecole Culinaire this summer?
I plan to continue working at Eclipse and glean as much knowledge and experience as I can from executive chef Maurice Reed, pastry chef Claire Robberson, sous chef Brendan Noonan, late-night chef Tony Baker and chef de cuisine Wes Johnson.
To see them at work is humbling and awe inspiring.
I am so grateful to work with so many skilled and talented people. Braised Lamb Shanks Courtesy of Ivy Tominack. Serves 6 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 6 lamb shanks, trimmed of excess fat salt and ground black pepper 1 large onion, sliced thick 4 shallots, cut in half 6 cloves of garlic, peeled 3 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 Tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves 2 cups dry red wine 3 cups chicken broth Adjust oven rack to the lower middle position and preheat the oven to 350º.
In a Dutch oven, or heavy bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium high heat until it shimmers. Generously season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper and cook them on all sides.
To get a really nice brown color, cook each side for about 3 to 4 minutes. (You may have to brown the shanks in batches of two or three. You do not want to crowd the pan, because that will cause them to steam, not brown.) Once browned, transfer to a plate and cover with aluminum foil. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot. Add the onion, shallots, garlic, carrots, celery, tomato paste, herbs, and a sprinkle of salt. Cook until the vegetables are slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Do not brown the vegetables. Add the wine, then the chicken broth, and stir with a wooden spoon to loosen the fond, the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer, add the shanks, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Braise the shanks for 1-1/2 hours. Uncover the pot, turn the shanks and return to the oven. Braise in the uncovered pot until the meat falls off the bone, about another hour. Let the shanks rest for 15 minutes before serving.
Original photograph caption
Ivy Tominack, right, at Eclipse Restaurant in Moonrise Hotel with neighborhood staffer Alex Birch of Pershing.
Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, February–March 2010.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times2010_02.pdf, printed page(s) 5; PDF page(s) 5.
