Historical April 1994 article. Dates, prices, services and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
In the last article I discussed the factors that influence the cost and ease of converting an existing attic into useful livable space. Expanding into a basement can be an equally cost effective alternative. Once again, a short inspection tour can help you analyze the potential pitfalls that can raise the cost and difficulty level of converting your basement into living space. First you have to be able to walk around the basement-so spring cleaning is in order. It’s hard to know how much space you have if you can only see the first row of boxes.
After you have cleaned have a garage sale! You will be losing storage space in the basement so you can’t keep everything you have had stashed away down there. You will be amazed at how much more space there is (besides all your neighbors want to know what you have been keeping down there). Quite obviously, there are major differences between an attic conversion and refinishing a basement. Among others, a major difference is that in an attic the concern was how to tie into the existing systems, in a basement the major problem is to figure out how to design and build around them. I. STRUCTURE: Is the height of the basement ceiling seven feet or more? Is the floor concrete or earth?
If the ceiling height is less than seven feet but the floor is earth, then additional clearance could possibly be arranged at a reasonable cost.
If your floor is concrete you can still make the addition but the cost becomes prohibitive. Less than seven foot ceilings make it a cave – not an addition. 2. SYSTEMS: Are the systems (heat, hot water, electric panel) spread haphazardly over the basement or are they arranged in some semblance of order? Do you have a maze of low-hanging electrical or water lines?
If so these may have to be moved in order to build the addition. Is the basement dry during heavy rains?
If not, that problem needs to be solved before the basement can be refinished. Are there supporting pillars in the center of the basement? You know the things your kids ride their bikes around.
If so, you need to design around these pillars. You may also need to check the capacity of your systems to take on a whole other floor. 3. ALL FRAMING AND INSULATION: What kind of walls exist?
To maintain a comfortable temperature, you will need to frame and insulate the exterior walls of your basement.
In addition, framing the exterior walls allows the new electric to be run easily.
I like to use steel studs, set a couple of inches from the wall.
This allows me to make sure the walls are straight all over, as well as allowing me to insulate the walls to R-I9 (remember the vapor barrier). Since none of the walls are load-bearing, code allows you to use 2×3’s, set a couple of inches from the wall.
If the basement is going to be used for a sleeping area (for which a second exit is required under the fire code), or as a home office, I prefer to insulate the ceiling and use 5/8″ fire code drywall on the ceiling as well.
This reduces noise between the basement and the first floor and makes living on both these floors much more comfortable, and allows private conversations to remain private. One thing that I would very strongly urge is that you get help with the design of your new living space.
We know a couple who designed their entire basement to be lived in and forgot to leave storage space as well.
They don’t get to park in their garage anymore. Designed well, the new addition can provide years of versatile service. Designed poorly, the new addition can be a potential white elephant that is poorly utilized. See you at the garage sale!!
Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, April 1994.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times1994_04.pdf, printed page(s) 5; PDF page(s) 5.
