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Oldest neighborhood newspaper in St. Louis · Independent and all volunteer-run since 1970

Macho Menu: Reuben Meatloaf

By King Schoenfeld
King Schoenfeld mixing meatloaf ingredients in his kitchen.

Historical October 1987 report or notice. Original dates, prices and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.

October suggests German cooking, Octoberfests and similar celebration, especially if you happen to be of German extraction like myself.

The cooking of other countries may be based on such concepts of yin and yang, moderation or subtle flavors. German cooking seems more related to “Strum and Drang,” gustatory “storm and stress.” I’ve always enjoyed greasy Bratwurst and vinegary potato salad, the spiciest mustard. I recall being a child seated at the dinner table watching my grandfather eat horseradish until beads of sweat broke out on his forehead, much to his pleasure. What could be more “macho?” In keeping with this tradition, I’d like to share a recipe that transforms simple meatloaf into a reuben delight.

This one is probably not one for children—mine couldn’t finish one helping.

But if you like a good reuben sandwich, this will give you some of the same taste sensations.

REUBEN MEATLOAF

1 lb. ground chuck

2 slices rye bread, shredded

1 egg

1 tsp caraway seed

1/4 cup onion, minced

1/4 cup celery, minced

1/2 can sauerkraut

2 slices Swiss cheese, cut into strips

Salt and Pepper to taste

Meatloaf/breadloaf baking pan

I’ve used ground beef, although you may prefer ground lamb or shredded corn beef. Mix everything together in a bowl except the cheese and sauerkraut with your (ugh!) hands.

This is the toughest part and, in true Macho Menu style, I first fortified myself with some hearty red wine.

On a piece of wax paper (or a floured counter top) form the meat mixture into an 8 x 12 inch rectangle.

Then, spread over the top of the meat the strips of Swiss cheese and the sauerkraut (drained).

Now use your strongest will power and nimble fingers to roll the meat into a roll (what else?) about 8 inches long, taking care to patch up spots that tear and to seal up the ends. Then gingerly pop (or slide) the roll into the baking pan and bake in a 350 degree over for 1¼ hours.

If you are a cooking speed freak like myself, you may throw the meatloaf into your microwave for 12 minutes on high, rotating periodically, Since we’re not into cholesterol these days, be sure to drain the juice from the meatloaf at least once during the cooking time. Meanwhile, you can prepare some hot, sliced beets with a little vinegar and more caraway seed for a vegetable and more rye bread or potatoes in any shape or form for your carbohydrates. (Besides, this menu needs something that isn’t pickled in it). Your favorite mustard, with or without horseradish, is the condiment of choice for your meatloaf, although my wife found thousand island dressing to her taste. Naturally beer is the natural drink for your meal, but you may wish to stick with your red wine. (Remember, “Wein auf Bier, das rat’ ich dir. Bier auf Wein, las’ das sein!” At least that’s what Bach always used to say.)

Original photograph caption

King Schoenfeld. Photo by Jeremy Schoenfeld. The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, October 1987, page 5.

Originally published in The Times of Skinker-DeBaliviere, October 1987.

Read this article in the original newspaper issue.

Original source: SD_Times1987_10.pdf, printed page(s) 5; PDF page(s) 5.

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