Historical May 1983 report or notice. Original dates, prices and contacts describe the source period; current availability has not been established.
One of the advantages to life in Skin kerDeBaliviere is the proximity of “The Loop” — among the most interesting commercial areas in all of St. Louis. Over the past few years, the Loop has seen many businesses come and go but has managed to survive – indeed to capitalize on the enviable success of the Fair in the Square’s ethnic food booths.
The area’s many fine restaurants have maintained a reputation of ethnic excellence: the venerable Lantern House (Chinese), Bobby’s Creole (the first fresh New Orleans style,) Cicero’s (Italian), Blueberry Hill (Rock and Roll). More recently, there is Zorba’s (Greek), the Tree Trunk (NY), La Patisserie (French), and the most recent arrival, Saleem’s (Lebanese foods). Saleem’s is certainly no newcomer to St. Louis, having been a success on the South Side for many years. Judging from the clientele enjoying a recent Friday evening there, many long-time customers have made an easy transition.
One wise word to other first-timers: bring your own spirits. Saleem’s does not yet have a liquor license, and the spicy tastes simply cry for beer.
For the purist, however, Saleem’s offers Turkish coffee ($1), tea (.60), and Soha ($1.75), a house specialty blending milk, bananas, honey and walnuts.
Various soft drinks are also available.
In the way of appetizers, Saleem’s offers several interesting dishes, many involving chunks of pita bread and rather hearty cold dips. “Baba Ghannouj” ($2.50), for example, is made of eggplant seasoned with a mildly spicy creamy sauce called tahini, the base of which is sesame seed.
We also tried “Tabbuli” ($2.75), an attractive dish like a cross between a dip and a salad, as it blends delicately seasoned parsley and cracked wheat for a crunchy greens taste that all four of us enjoyed. “Falafel” ($2.95) got mixed reviews. Basically a dish of the ubiquitous tahini sauce, featuring small, crisp chunks of fried fava bean patty (looking like home-made croutons), its taste was decidedly unusual.
Two of our party liked it best of all the appetizers; the others ranked it well beneath the parsley dish.
All four of us agreed that the “Fried Bread” ($1.25 for an ample portion of fried pita) was a great idea, especially as it adds a hot dish to the list of cold appetizers.
For the main course, two of our group selected from the sandwich menu (ranging from $3.75 to $3.95). Thoroughly enjoyed by all who tried it was the “Shawarma,” a pleasant combination of marinated beef mixed with lettuce and tomatoes, creamy tahini sauce and served in pita bread.
Not so the mis-named Leganese pizza “Laham Bajeen,” which was spiced ground beef broiled on top of a pita bread and served whole.
The somewhat bitter taste did not blend well with the creamy tahini which permeates so many other dishes, and it was the least successful of the items we tried, certainly bearing no resemblance to a pizza in taste. Saleem’s dinners are reasonably priced, and the ones we tried were quite well prepared.
All come with a basic noncontroversial salad, and an ample portion of well-seasoned, tasty rice.
Even the rice connisseur in our party judged this rice a success. Among the titles was “Riz-Taouk” ($5.95) which features marinated chicken breast mixed with tahini sauce on rice.
It . has a nice bit of mild seasoning, and the chicken was tender and slightly browned, clearly cooked on a grill.
We all tried and liked this pleasant dish.
The dinner menu also features “Shishkebab” ($7.50) Catfish ($5.50), Sole ($5.50), and dinner portions of “Shawarma” ($7.95), “Shish Taouk” ($6.25) and “Kibbee” ($4.50).
The dessert menu is limited to the traditional favorites: Baklawa and Halvah (both at $1.50).
With a mild-mannered approach, Saleem’s doesn’t require a palate truly adapted to a life of spice, but it’s flavorful enough to provide a nice introduction to the incredible variety of eastern spicy tastes. It’s a cozy place, with a warm decor and a background of middle eastern music that’s not overwhelming. Saleem’s is a welcome addition to the Loop and the neighborhood.
Originally published in The Paper, May 1983.
Read this article in the original newspaper issue.
Original source: SD_Times1983_05.pdf, printed page(s) 6, 8; PDF page(s) 6, 8.
